1840’s Dickens dress

In the month December, my medieval band De Soete Inval regularly gets booked for Dickens themed Christmas markets. We cannot wear our medieval outfits to those events, so I needed a dress, bonnet and coat in Charles Dickens style, a style that is commonly associated with the 1840’s.

I wanted the shape to be period correct, because I really like the 1840’s style and I also prefer looking the part. I did compromise with the fabric though, as it was hard to find an accurately patterned cotton for the dress that I liked, so I went for something that resembled silk but is, I guess, a polyester blend.

These were some dresses I used for inspiration:

"Slumming it" dress
“Slumming it” dress by lady Lovelace
1855's dress
1855’s dress, in Kunstmuseum Den Haag
Jane Eyre dress
Dress from the 2011 Jane Eyre movie
Dress from the movie Jane Eyre
Dress from the movie Jane Eyre

For my dress, I used the Truly Victorian pattern TV454 – 1844 German Day dresses as a basis. I adapted it, as it did not have the exact shape I had in mind: I wanted pleats as well as a buttoned closure at the front. (It’s so much more convenient if you can dress yourself!) Besides re-drafting the pattern, I also tried modelling the fabric on my mannequin, but I still did not entirely succeed in creating the pleats the way I wanted. The end result is still a dress where the lines in the fabric all run vertically, instead of more slanted with each pleat. Oh well, good enough, I guess…

The edges of the bodice are decorated with bias tape that I made myself:

making bias tape

I found this lovely bobbin lace collar through an online thrift store, to finish the neckline:

bobbin lace collar

The skirt is of a simple shape: just a rectangular piece of fabric. With a width of 4,5 metres. That I then had to fold into cartridge pleats to make it fit the 78 cm waist band… 🥴

creating cartridge pleats in the skirt

Here’s the skirt with the bodice (please ignore my unstyled hair – it is currently too short to put it up, so I really need a bonnet!):

Dickens dress - front
Dickens dress - side
Dickens dress - back

Time spent: 29,25 hours
Costs: €67,50 (€32,50 for the striped fabric, €13 for the buttons, €5 for the collar, and €17 for the pattern. I still had lining fabric, boning and thread in stock.)

Stay tuned, as the following blog posts will show the coat and bonnet that I made to go with this dress!

Related Posts

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How I made my 1840's bonnet, to be worn with my Dickensian outfit.
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The purple silk Victorian evening dress I made for a 1876 LARP event.
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My Victorian coat, called either a 'pardessus' or 'pelisse' or 'paletot'. And photo's of me wearing it with my entire Dickens / 1840's outfit!
13 December 2023